Istanbul, Turkey
We arrived in Istanbul at the start of Kurban Bayramı, the festival of Eid al-Adha, ready for a few days of sunshine, good food and ambling aimlessly. This was my second visit to the city and my partner's first. The first time I came, back in 2018, I had travelled with a large group of friends. We spent our days happily getting lost, eating far too much and falling in love with the city one neighbourhood at a time. Istanbul left a deep impression on me then, and for years afterwards I found myself talking about it so often that my partner was understandably curious to see what all the fuss was about.
Sova, London
Just off Portobello Road, Sova isn't exactly hidden away. In fact, it's right next door to The Notting Hill Bookshop, meaning I had to navigate a queue of tourists waiting to recreate their Julia Roberts moment before I could get through the door.
Flour & Grape, London
Flour & Grape make bloody good pasta. I’ve been a number of times now and have never left disappointed. It sits right down at the far end of Bermondsey Street, which has quietly become one of the best food streets in London.
Quality Chop House, London
The food at Quality Chop House is rich. Deeply, unapologetically rich. If you go for lunch, as we did, I strongly recommend skipping breakfast and making absolutely no plans for dinner afterwards. I felt full for the next two days.
Singburi, London
Much has already been said about Singburi and most of it is true. In its original form in Leytonstone, getting a table was a feat in and of itself. It built up this near-mythical reputation over the years, regularly appearing on lists of the best restaurants in London.
Nora, London
I wouldn’t usually choose somewhere like Nora for Turkish food. In my mind, if you want the best Turkish cooking in London, you go to Green Lanes and you don’t overthink it. That still largely holds true. But Nora offered something slightly different and it’s worth acknowledging that it does it well. A little more polished without losing sight of the flavours that matter.
Khao So-i, London
A couple of Khao Soi spots have begun to appear across London recently, a quiet sign that this northern Thai dish is finally getting the attention it deserves. Known to anyone who has travelled through Chiang Mai or the surrounding region, Khao Soi is a curry noodle soup that is rich and textured. For a recent Friday date night, we decided to see how it translates here in London.
Camille, London
I arrived at Camille tired in that particular way that only fellow teachers can understand, wanting little more than a good glass of wine and somewhere to sit quietly. Camille delivered exactly that.
Belly Bistro, London
I had been meaning to go to Belly for some time, though with a degree of suspicion. It had all the markings of a place that photographs beautifully but leaves you disappointed, the kind where style eclipses substance and you find yourself stopping for something else on the way home. BELLY, however thankfully, is not that place.
Ganbara, San Sebastián
You go here for the mushrooms. They sit in piles on the counter, ready to be pan-fried in butter and served with a silky egg yolk. And they are sensational. They absolutely live up to the hype. But in truth, it was the quieter, less-sung dishes that secured this meal as one of my favourite experiences in San Sebastián.
San Sebastián, Spain
San Sebastián had taken on an almost mythical quality in my head. It’s one of those Narnia-like places that every food-loving friend speaks about with complete certainty as the ultimate destination. I’d wanted to go for years, but with that came a real fear it wouldn’t live up to the hype. Thankfully, it did. Completely.
Bar Nestor, San Sebastián
When somewhere is as hyped as Bar Nestor, I get nervous. Restaurants spoken about in near-mythical terms rarely live up to the expectations that build around them. But my best friend Liz had assured me, with the same reverence she usually only reserves for Korean BBQ, that the steak here was the best she had eaten anywhere in the world.
Mountain, London
The thing that really stayed with me about Mountain was the vegetables. I went in expecting to be most impressed by the meat, which is undeniably very good, but it was the vegetable dishes that were exceptional.
Angelina, London
For my partner’s birthday, I booked us in for the tasting menu at Angelina. Not to be confused with Osteria Angelina (which I’m still desperate to try), this is where they serve their ‘Kondate’ menu, a Japanese-style tasting menu with Italian influence. And for London, it’s actually pretty reasonably priced.
Gymkhana, London
The tandoori lamb chops at Gymkhana are the best thing I’ve ever eaten. I’m saying that upfront so there’s no confusion. This was the most blowout meal I have ever had - one of our closest friends turning 40 and the rest of us treating her. The kind of evening where you say yes to everything and don’t think too hard about the bill until much later.
Lake Annecy, France
When I was looking for day trips from Lyon, a friend suggested Annecy. I had only a vague sense of it, somewhere near the Alps, somewhere picturesque. It didn’t take long to realise that Lake Annecy is definitely worth a trip in its own right.
Lyon, France
Lyon is often called the gastronomic capital of France, built around its traditional bouchon lyonnais culture. We decided early on that this trip would lean fully into that. Less museums, more meals. The culture, this time, was the food.
Jinxi Water Town, China
After the most extraordinary adventure across China, our final days softened into something quieter in Jinxi. We stayed with family, settling into the gentle rhythm of a water town that has endured for over 2,500 years. Less visited than its neighbouring towns, Jinxi is peaceful, unhurried and has the charming energy of a countryside village.
Chengdu, China
For somewhere so vast, modern and developed, Chengdu has a calmness to it. Life feels slower. People are open, warm and generous with their time. You’ll find huge, glossy shopping malls, but also quiet teahouses, shaded streets and small pockets of tradition tucked into the middle of it all. It’s a city of contrasts in the best way.
Wulong, China
Leaving Chongqing for the Wulong Karst National Geology Park felt like stepping out of the city and into something much older and quieter. The drive takes around three hours, and it’s worth paying attention the whole way. Chongqing’s dense skyline gives way to mountains and then these dramatic limestone formations.