Lyon, France
Lyon is often called the gastronomic capital of France, built around its traditional bouchon lyonnais culture. We decided early on that this trip would lean fully into that. Less museums, more meals. The culture, this time, was the food.
We arrived in late October, expecting the worst of the weather, but it was mild enough for long walks between meals which, as it turns out, are absolutely necessary here.
I’d actually been to Lyon once before, about 15 years ago, for the Fête des Lumières. That trip was all about wandering and taking it in. This time felt different as I came back with a list, a plan and the kind of budget that allows you to eat properly.
Our first night was at Daniel et Denise, one of the city’s most well-known bouchons. It’s exactly what you hope for: iconic, slightly theatrical in its Frenchness and with a menu that doesn’t try to modernise or soften anything. The food is rich, generous and very good. We had poulet aux morilles and a steak in a deep, glossy sauce, alongside fried potatoes and a creamy gratin. It’s not subtle. This is not a city built for restraint or for the lactose intolerant.
Dessert was the iconic tarte à la praline: bright pink, unapologetically sweet and one of my favourite desserts.
The next day was built around walking. We took the Funiculars of Lyon up to the top of the city, then slowly made our way back down through Vieux Lyon, stopping whenever something caught our eye. At Café du Jura, we went all in on the classics: andouillette, salade lyonnaise and steak in red wine sauce. It felt like we were working through a checklist of the city’s most traditional dishes, in the best way.
After a day trip to Annecy, we came back for one final meal at Le Sully Bouchon. This one felt slightly lighter, a bit more modern in its approach. The sauces weren’t quite as heavy, there was more balance - fish, a really good mushroom soup. Still very much rooted in Lyonnaise cooking, just with a bit more restraint.
This trip felt like a proper food pilgrimage. No distractions, no over-planning, just following our appetite from one place to the next.
