Ganbara, San Sebastián

You go here for the mushrooms. They sit in piles on the counter, ready to be pan-fried in butter and served with a silky egg yolk.

And they are sensational. They absolutely live up to the hype. But in truth, it was the quieter, less-hyped dishes that secured this meal as one of my favourite experiences in San Sebastián.

Let’s begin with what I regret not ordering. The carabineros were resting on the counter in their little ice bath, tempting me to part with £35 for just one (yes, one) prawn. Knowing this was only the first day of the trip, and that my budget needed some restraint, I resisted. Instead, I watched a man across the bar order three and basked in his obvious delight. I will be back for you, little red friend.

The real revelation of the meal, however, was the tomato salad. Ordered almost as an afterthought by my partner, it turned out to be quite literally the most sublime tomatoes I have ever tasted, even compared to the sun-ripened ones of southern Italy. I still think about that tomato salad. I would happily book the flights again just to eat it once more.

In San Sebastián, it is always worth asking the staff what they recommend. The crab tartlets were a heavenly suggestion, and a small pintxos of prawns, cod and potato turned out to be delicious.

And then, finally, the main attraction. The mushrooms are very much worth the pilgrimage. Each variety seemed perfectly seasoned to complement its particular texture and flavour. The dish was everything you hope for in this region: simple, precise and with exceptional quality produce.

Two glasses of txakoli later, we stumbled out into the Old Town and wandered its narrow streets before embarking, somewhat enthusiastically, on round two. One lunch is never enough in San Sebastián.