Khao So-i, London

A couple of Khao Soi spots have begun to appear across London recently, a quiet sign that this northern Thai dish is finally getting the attention it deserves. Known to anyone who has travelled through Chiang Mai or the surrounding region, Khao Soi is a curry noodle soup that is rich and textured. For a recent Friday date night, we decided to see how it translates here in London.

There is always a slight hesitation when ordering noodles in London. My partner, having grown up somewhere where a truly exceptional bowl might cost the equivalent of a few pounds, finds it difficult to fully accept the price shift. But this is London and so expectations need to adjust accordingly.

Fortunately, what arrived justified the compromise. We began with Gai Yang Pong Yi Ra, a grilled chicken thigh that was tender and full of smoky depth, and Sai Oua, the northern Thai sausage. The dipping sauces were generous, adding brightness and flavour that worked very well.

Between courses, I ordered a Kaad Margarita which was excellent. When the Khao Soi arrived, it carried the richness you hope for. We ordered two variations, the braised beef shank with torched chuck eye variety particularly stood out, the meat soft and deeply flavoured, sitting within a broth that was both creamy and rich.

Part of the pleasure of Khao Soi is in the contrast of textures. The soft egg noodles beneath, the crisp fried noodles on top, and the sharpness of the pickled greens and shallots that you add yourself. That combination is what makes the dish feel complete.

By the end, we had intended to order dessert, but the depth of the broth and the generosity of the portions had already done their work. It felt unnecessary to push further. Overall, a good place for a date and a satisfying way to spend a Friday evening.