Belly Bistro, London
I had been meaning to go to Belly for some time, though with a degree of suspicion. It had all the markings of a place that photographs beautifully but leaves you disappointed, the kind where style eclipses substance and you find yourself stopping for something else on the way home. BELLY, however thankfully, is not that place.
The cooking is assured and generous in flavour. Sauces, in particular, are given the attention they deserve, mixing Filipino flavours that are deeply satisfying.
We began, or intended to, with the must order tempura cod pandesal. Unfortunately, a family at the next table ordered the entire remaining batch within minutes of service beginning. Despite arriving early, we had missed our window. They then left it half uneaten, which felt faintly tragic. If you are set on trying the Cod, arrive at opening and order immediately to avoid disappointment.
That small disappointment, however, led us to other dishes which may have even been better. The smoked trout kinilaw was a standout: bright, sharp, and clean, with citrus and cane vinegar lifting the richness of the fish. It reminded me of Ecuadorian ceviches, both in flavour and generosity.
The steak tartare, served with salt and pepper crisps, offered something more playful. The coriander and chilli gave a freshness and texture, the crisps a surprisingly effective vehicle for shovelling.
For the main, the oak-smoked tinola chicken was exceptional. Here again, it was the caper sauce that defined the dish: rich, savoury and addictive. Across the menu, sauce seems to be Belly’s strength. The Pink Fir potatoes in kombu butter were excellent, reminiscent of those at Mountain, while the bitter leaf salad provided a necessary counterpoint.
Dessert was, in truth, the reason for the visit. My partner’s fondness for ube, and for tiramisu, made it inevitable. The result was more nuanced than expected, the earthiness of the ube cream balanced by a sharp layer of rhubarb beneath. Alongside it, a frozen custard profiterole with fish sauce caramel proved a surprising winner.
BELLY, fortunately, resists the easy categorisation of trend-driven dining. It is thoughtful and well balanced and worth a revisit. What a relief it looks good and still delivers.
