Camille, London

I arrived at Camille tired in that particular way that only fellow teachers can understand, wanting little more than a good glass of wine and somewhere to sit quietly. Camille delivered exactly that.

The restaurant sits on the edge of Borough Market, but feels removed from its crowds. The candle centrepiece is the first thing you see when you enter, the rest of the interior is simple and warm, with wine lining the walls. It leans French in influence, with a menu that changes regularly and a focus on seasonal produce and classic technique.

The menu is concise but thoughtful, balancing small plates with more substantial dishes. We began with the Cornish squid: lightly fried, tender, and set over a deeply flavoured bouillabaisse sauce. It was simple and very well executed, the bread essential for gathering the last of the sauce.

The shallot tatin was the standout. Soft, deeply caramelised shallots brought a gentle sweetness, offset by a chicory salad dressed in blue cheese. The bitterness and sharpness cut cleanly through the richness, it’s a dish I would return for.

We finished with a rump steak to share. Having just come back from San Sebastián, it felt noticeably lighter and leaner in style. Cooked superbly and served with a rich, well-made gravy, it was a confident, unfussy end to the meal. On the side, a great mound of salad served generously with parmesan and a light dressing worked perfectly.