San Sebastián, Spain

San Sebastián had taken on an almost mythical quality in my head. It’s one of those Narnia-like places that every food-loving friend speaks about with complete certainty as the ultimate destination. I’d wanted to go for years, but with that came a real fear it wouldn’t live up to the hype. Thankfully, it did. Completely.

We decided early on that this trip would be different from our usual pace. No packed schedules. Just eating, sleeping, reading and repeating. It turned out to be exactly what we needed. We stayed at Hotel Sansebay, perfectly placed on the edge of the old town, with everything within a five-minute walk. February helped too as it was quieter, calmer and worth the risk on the weather.

Day 1:

We arrived from Bilbao in the late afternoon and headed straight out to Asador Portuetxe Erretegia. It feels slightly out of place, a wood-beamed restaurant tucked behind what looks like student accommodation, but it’s absolutely worth the journey.

The barbecued peppers deserve immediate mention. Soft, buttery, deeply sweet and genuinely one of the best things I ate all trip and also probably all my life. Not hyperbole.

The steak was also exceptional. Thick-cut, perfectly charred, finished with crystal salt and easily on par with Bar Nestor. If I went back, I’d order the whole grilled fish I kept eyeing on other tables.

Day 2

We woke up late and went straight in search of coffee and pastry. Galparsoro Okindegia was three minutes from the hotel and instantly became a favourite. I had a crisp, flaky pastry I still can’t name, and went back the next day for a fig brioche. You really can’t go wrong with anything you order here.

Lunch was at Ganbara. We arrived early and got a great spot at the counter, which I’d definitely recommend. I’ve written about it separately as a blog post, but it’s a must. Yes, the mushrooms, but also the crab tartlet and the tomato salad.

Still determined to keep going, we headed to Cervecerías La Mejillonera for mussels in tomato sauce and fried seafood. Much more low-key, but just as good.

Then, a walk and a nap (a pattern that quickly defined the trip.)

Dinner was at Atari. Everything we had was strong — tripe, cod, octopus — but the standout was a prawn pintxo I ordered on impulse after spotting it being carried past. The must-order, though, is the French toast. As I’d been told by the person who recommended it: don’t ask questions, just get it.

Day 3

Back to Galparsoro again for breakfast. Then a slow build-up to Bar Nestor.

Places with this much hype can go either way, but this absolutely delivered. The steak was perfect, with a deep and rich flavour, alongside equally perfect padrón peppers and tomatoes. In February, the queue is also much more manageable if you plan ahead. I have done an entire separate post on Nestor here.

Dinner was a run through some of the big names. At La Cuchara de San Telmo, you need to arrive early and queue, even during off-season. The suckling pig is the headline, but the goat’s cheese with pepper and the scallop orzo pintxo were just as memorable.

Next stop was Bar Sport. Great atmosphere, no fuss. The sea urchin soup was incredibly rich and umami-heavy, and the surprise hit was the rib-eye mini burger, another “just order it” dish.

Day 4

The mission was tortilla at Antonio Bar. We overslept and I was convinced we’d missed it, but thankfully not. It was an excellent tortilla with a soft, deeply caramelised texture and, in my opinion, better than Nestor’s.

The rest of the day was spent chasing seafood. The tuna-stuffed piquillo pepper at Bar Martínez was exactly what I wanted, alongside scallops and the tuna belly.

At Borda Berri, the pig’s ear was surprisingly soft and delicate, very different to what I’m used to. The pork rib and risotto were also excellent.

Then, as always, a walk and a nap.

For our final dinner, we went to Gandarias (the restaurant). Scallops covered in garlic butter, followed by fish in a similar style — simple, rich, and a perfect way to end the trip.

Day 5

Time to leave. Bilbao gave us a rare sunny February day, so we dropped our bags, walked to the Guggenheim, and squeezed in a final round of pintxos before heading to the airport. It feels like a place worth returning to in its own right.

This trip really was everything I’d hoped for. Not just because of the food — although that alone would justify it — but because of the pace. Slowing down, eating well, resting properly. It’s easy to build places up in your head, especially ones like this. But San Sebastián delivers — and then quietly makes you want to come back and do it all over again. It is trips like this that remind me how fortunate I am to be living the life I have built. I didn’t grow up with money, restaurants or holidays. To be able to visit somewhere with such abundance feels like a special form of self care. That could be the txakoli talking, but what a gift this trip was to myself. I will most certainly be back.