Singburi, London
Much has already been said about Singburi and most of it is true. In its original form in Leytonstone, getting a table was a feat in and of itself. It built up this near-mythical reputation over the years, regularly appearing on lists of the best restaurants in London. When the original owners retired, there was understandable panic from the people devoted to it. Thankfully, their son reopened it in a completely new setting in Shoreditch, mercifully, with tables you can actually pre-book.
I’ve now been twice, and both visits have been exceptional. The first time, my friends and I made the excellent decision to order the entire menu. This is absolutely the right approach at Singburi. The food comes out in waves of sweet, sour, salty and spicy flavours, and the more variety you get on the table, the better the whole experience becomes.
We ate enormous amounts of curry, grilled meats and salads. The pork belly was ridiculously sticky, smoky and rich. The charred mackerel was another standout, deeply savoury with that perfect balance of crisp skin and soft flesh underneath. Every single dish was noteworthy.
The menu changes constantly, which is part of the appeal, but there are a few dishes that are almost always available. After eating there, you understand why.
The grilled lamb riblets are one of the best things in history. Properly charred on the outside, sticky with tamarind and fish sauce, salty, sweet and intensely savoury. Completely addictive and unhinged.
The grilled wild ginger chicken thigh is another must-order. The skin comes deeply caramelised and smoky from the grill, while somehow the meat stays unbelievably juicy underneath. It’s simple in theory, but executed perfectly.
And then there’s the aubergine pat phet, which you absolutely have to order. The texture alone makes it memorable. Soft in the middle with dark, caramelised edges that almost melt into the sauce and then tossed with oyster sauce, fish sauce, chilli, wild garlic and Thai basil.
The salads deserve just as much attention as the grilled dishes. On my first visit, there was a smoked tomato salad that genuinely warped my perception of reality. This time, we had a kohlrabi salad that brought freshness and crunch against all the richer dishes on the table. Singburi is very good at balance - you never feel weighed down, despite how much you inevitably order.
It’s excellent cooking, full of flavour and personality. And because the menu changes so often, there’s always a reason to come back.
