Porto, Portugal

I’ve visited Porto twice now, and loved it just as much both times. It’s a city that feels easy to settle into, beautiful without trying too hard, full of good food and genuinely welcoming.

Porto is built around the Douro River, with the city split across two sides and connected by the striking Dom Luís I Bridge. On one side you have the historic centre, all colourful buildings and steep streets; on the other, Vila Nova de Gaia, where the famous port houses line the river.

A great place to start is the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal. It’s slightly set back from the main centre, but worth it for the views alone. You can look out across the river and the rooftops of the city and in late spring the gardens are full of colour. There are also peacocks wandering around (and, slightly randomly, chickens), which somehow just adds to the charm.

The food in Porto is excellent and refreshingly affordable. The Francesinha is the city’s most famous dish, a sandwich with layers of meat, covered in melted cheese, topped with an egg, and drenched in a rich beer and tomato sauce. It’s a lot, but in the best way. You won’t need to eat again for a while after.

Seafood is another highlight. You’ll find great spots in the city, but it’s also worth heading out to Matosinhos, easily reached by metro. It has a long stretch of beach and is known for its seafood restaurants, where everything is grilled fresh outside. There is also a canned sardine factory you can tour and sample the best sardines in the world. It’s a slightly different pace from the centre and a really nice way to spend an afternoon.

You can’t visit Porto without trying port wine. Head across the river to Gaia, take the cable car down and stop into one of the many cellars for a tasting. Sitting by the river with a flight of port as the sun goes down is one of those simple, perfect travel moments. The cable car back up does feel slightly more dramatic after a few glasses.

For something sweet, Manteigaria does excellent pastéis de nata. And for something more substantial, Pedro dos Frangos is a great spot for piri piri chicken (definitely book ahead as it gets busy in the evenings.)

Porto is best enjoyed slowly. Walking, stopping, eating, drinking and then doing it all again. It’s an incredibly charming city, but also one that feels liveable, not just somewhere to visit, but somewhere you could imagine staying. I’ll definitely be back for a third time.