Plaza Khao Gaeng, London

This wasn't my first foray into the world of Plaza Khao Gaeng. I'd previously experienced their Tottenham Court Road location, where a group of us shared a sprawling, spicy feast we thoroughly enjoyed. While that spot is known for its bustling energy, their newer outpost in Borough Yards offers a slightly more sophisticated and relaxed atmosphere.

Having just spent a week dealing with the first-time buyer fresh hell (read: conveyancers) that was completing on my flat, I decided to celebrate with a little solo moment of calm, and Plaza Khao Gaeng provided the perfect sanctuary.

The Borough Yards location is a masterclass in industrial-chic meets Southern Thai authenticity. The great big windows on the front open out, an ideal setting for a self indulgent solo lunch people watching.

I kicked things off with the Hat Yai fried chicken, which is legendary. They have a dedicated station right in the window, where the aroma of bubbling oil and spices serves as a siren song (yes I’ve just seen the Odyssey) for passersby. As a staunch advocate for the chicken thigh being superior to virtually anything, I was thrilled to find they use this juicy cut, frying it to a precise crunch. Topped with a mountain of crispy shallots and served with a sweet chilli dip that carries a necessary hit of fish sauce, it is comfortably among the best fried chicken in the capital.

For a refreshing counterpoint, I opted for the Nam Chup vegetable platter. While I initially expected a more integrated salad, it arrived as a beautiful array of crisp, raw vegetables designed for dipping. The star here was the pungent, tangy shrimp paste dip. It was a bright, textural palate cleanser, though I've made a mental note to try the Yam Strawberry on my next visit.

The centrepiece of my meal was the Gaeng Massaman Neua. This beef massaman curry was really superb, the meat was tender enough to yield at the fork immediately, while the potatoes had absorbed the rich, aromatic coconut milk. The addition of small, whole shallots provided a lovely sweetness and a gentle crunch. While their buttery roti is the traditional companion here, I found that a simple side of steamed jasmine rice was perfect for soaking up every last drop of that fragrant sauce.

Ultimately, Plaza Khao Gaeng is a testament to the blossoming of London's authentic Thai scene in recent years. Whether you're looking for a focused solo lunch (with warm service I might add) or a boisterous evening of feasting and cold beers with friends, it delivers on every front. It is Southern Thai cooking that doesn't pull its punches, and London is all the better for it.

Other Thai Spots I highly recommend:

  • Singburi: A legendary institution. Go and order everything.

  • Kolae: Located just around the corner in Borough, this spot specialises in the 'kolae' grilling method, a traditional Southern technique where fish or meat is generously marinated in a rich, curry paste before being charred over coals.

  • Somsaa: Situated in a stunning Spitalfields warehouse, Somsaa is renowned for its creative and bold approach to regional Thai cooking. Their iconic fried whole fish is a dish that lives inside my soul to this day.

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